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William Finnegan Quotes

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Hawaii is the birthplace of surfing, and many Hawaiians or part-Hawaiians surf, but in the rest of the United States it’s a pretty white sport  (William Finnegan Quotes) I remember surfing in Fiji, Samoa, Tonga, even Madeira, when local fishermen had never seen a surfboard before, and refused to believe that we could ride a wave on one  (William Finnegan Quotes) It’s so much harder than it looks - to conjure a fictional world that some passing wolf of skepticism can’t just blow down in one breath  (William Finnegan Quotes) I always wanted to write. While I was on a long surf trip, supporting myself with various day jobs, I was working hard on a novel. My third novel, in fact  (William Finnegan Quotes) I’m trying to find out what’s actually true, which is nearly always something, if not a world of things, that you can’t read in books  (William Finnegan Quotes) The differences between the received wisdom, the standard version of events, and the facts on the ground may be subtle or they may be stark, even profound  (William Finnegan Quotes) You’re after something - not a story, but a certain, exquisitely intense encounter with beauty - and the only way to find it is to tiptoe past the dragon’s cave  (William Finnegan Quotes) Even wars, big conflicts that have drawn a lot of news coverage, sometimes seem to me to have a center that hasn’t been described, that might yet be glimpsed if approached from some odd angle  (William Finnegan Quotes) Memoir is a weird genre for a reporter. You end up investigating your own memories, reporting out your past  (William Finnegan Quotes) Poor-country surf communities can be complex and, to some extent, leveling. The fisherman’s kid is competing head to head with the plutocrat’s gilded son. Your father can’t buy you a good frontside hack  (William Finnegan Quotes) I’ve felt afraid as a reporter many times. Sometimes it’s sharp, as in a bad moment, or a bad situation; other times it’s general, as in a country known for kidnapping, where you can never quite relax  (William Finnegan Quotes) There are good waves not that far from Manhattan - on Long Island, in north Jersey. It’s true that the best surf around here tends to happen in winter, so you need a good wetsuit, and the time window of good waves is often pretty short, so you have to stay on top of the forecasts.  (William Finnegan Quotes)